Part 16 is Step 13, taking a tip from automotive people and using pressurized air into the straws to find leaks (bubbles in the water). Patch with epoxy and don’t pressure test again until it is hard. Use hot water if you need to speed up the epoxy.

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Duration : 0:1:51

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Part 24 is Step21, making a simple flat boat out of a foam grocery tray. It’s only held on with rubber bands, so you can move the engine to another boat later if you want. Funny, but it seems you actually have to put some weight to give the engine something to push against or the engine doesn’t work well.

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Duration : 0:3:53

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Part 12 is Step 9, putting one more straw in to form a curved dome top, but this time it’s the short end of of a straw. Pinch it and push it in–on the side with the flaps–only to the bendy part. Then put tape donuts on the flat side without the flaps and tape it to a piece of cardboard. Gently push on the edges to make the bottom flat.

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Duration : 0:1:49

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Part 22 is Step 19, troubleshooting if your engine doesn’t work. SKIP THIS SECTION IF YOUR ENGINE WORKS OK. Sometimes you only have to prime the straws with water and try it again and it works. Or maybe you need a more heat if you are using a tea candle (don’t use a lighter or you’ll ruin the engine). Sometimes there might be a leak even though you already tested it. Still, it’s not hard to find it and seal the engine. Sometimes the cause of the trouble remains a mystery and you might just have to make another one (Yep, I know, I thoroughly hate having to do things over too).

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Duration : 0:3:40

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Part 10 is Step 7, acurately folding the edge flaps the rest of the way over with a credit card or something like it. Then you need to pound it (not rub it) flat. Be careful not to kink it.

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Duration : 0:2:28

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Part 11 is Step 8, using a thumbnail to open up the end of the “pocket” a bit, then pinching the end of the long part of a flexible straw and pushing it in. Then the long part of another straw. Push all the way in, but not so hard them split the other end.

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Duration : 0:2:37

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Part 13 is Step 10, is actually gluing the aluminum so it keeps its new shape. You should watch the whole step before starting because you only have 5 minutes once you mix the two parts together (less if it’s hot). You should have equal parts and mix thoroughly. Dab it on the silver parts even where the silver disappears, especially the ends. It’s really important to push the epoxy in between the folds of aluminum with the strip, for strength and to prevent leaks.

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Duration : 0:4:42

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Part 17 is Step 14, making a cardboard angle tool to set the angle between the aluminum boiler and the straws. You saved the pattern that printed out with the boiler pattern way back in part 7, step 4, didn’t you?!

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Duration : 0:2:8

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Part 23 is Step 20, some tips when you’re finished using the engine, like wiping off the carbon from the candle. Also, using heat to remove what’s left of the candle and affix a new one so it doesn’t keep falling out. Now is the time to decide which kind of boat to make for your engine. OOPS! I only have the simple flat boat instructions done.

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Duration : 0:2:41

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Part 9 is Step 6, finding a sharp desk corner, lining up the dashed lines with the corner, and making clear fold lines on the dashed lines of the pattern. Your thumbs should be together, and press really hard so you see clear fold lines.

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Duration : 0:3:12

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